on a concert-ous night this past thursday, we stopped by the old pomegranate to see what the “soft opening” of bouchon might look like. it looked busy. well frankly, it was hoppin’. the owner of la grotta (apparently, quite buddy-buddy with the bouchon owner) was holding court at the bar while several couple-y tables made up the entirety of the tiny restaurant. buzzing with servers, we were greeted immediately by the owner’s wife who promptly told us her and his (the chef) life stories, gave up tips on the specials, lamented about running out of mussels and seemed truly surprised by the amount of diners on the particular evening.
with insider news about the night’s dishes, we dove into the menu emerging with very little cooked fare. we are always searching for the perfect cheese plate so it was a no brainer to begin with the five french cheeses. add to that the charcuterie plate, the foie gras, tuna tartar and a tart (everyone is talking about them – AND for good reason), we were ready for some serious french chow.
on the cheese plate, five (on the smaller side) wedges of french cheese accompanied by figs, walnuts, and other nuts: a brie, camembert, a semi-soft, a blue cheese, and a goat cheese. background on your fromage? – brie and camembert are both made in france specifically and are protected by very distinct french guidelines (similar to champagne, kinda). the camembert and brie names, however are not protected and can be used on a myriad of cheeses that do not necessarily measure up to the guidelines that are imposed on the three “regions” that produce the real deal. camembert is typically made of raw milk and alas, we state peeps just aren’t down with the non-pasteurization thing just yet.
none of the cheeses served to us were particularly notable. this is not to say they were bad, by any means. they were good mundane french cheese.
on the other hand, the charcuterie was a myriad of meat fireworks. served with a tamarind fig “sauce”, a out-of-this world tapenade and a spicy hot mustard, there was duck sausage, rabbit sausage and three different hams. the sausages were outstanding – i am, however having trouble locating rabbit sausage in french cuisine. perhaps someone has insight?
the hams were decadent. it looked (and this is by my very untrained ham-spotting eye) as if we had one of these. without being too much help, and i am sorry – know they were fantastic and definitely a do-over. after munching on these meats, i attempted to glean more information from the owner and our waitress….. and to no avail as they were not parting with where they get their meats from. while strong-arming to get the most minute of details regarding purveyors (like that -6lus6?) that are used, we were sent an odd amuse bouche of chorizo? strange and somewhat incongruous coming from a french chef, we still took the opportunity to enjoy a latin fresh and fatty chopped pork and pork fat.
as for our foie gras and tuna, stellar. the foie gras is served with roast figs in lovely cast iron dishes that enhance the sear adding no less done-ness to the liver but a wonderful caramelization of flavors between the fig and goose. quite decadent and almost dessert.
the tuna was also outstanding. paired with very salty capers and salmon roe, the texture of the tuna and the roe create a sweet yet salty, crunchy and soft delight. my only complaint is there wasn’t enough.
while the above are reasons alone to sample bouchon, do not leave without trying a tart (a mini pizza, if you will) and the potato au gratin. the tart we sampled was an elevation in “pizza”. topped with caramelized onions, creme fraiche and speck (another oddity for french cuisine) it was amazing. bubbly bread made at the restaurant (slightly sweet) was a perfect base for the small pie. interestingly enough, the salad of mache, frisee and other bitter lettuces served as a garnish/accompaniment gave the already delicious personal an even better flavor. definitely put the two together for a few well-balanced bites.
au gratin , a term often taken to mean with cheese is a common french dish that can been classified to be anything browned and served in the dish in which it was cooked. the gratin served at bouchon is a culinary masterpiece. i could have eaten four of them. the “creme” wedged in between the delicate slices of potato should bottled and marketed as love or all things good or orgasmic or something equally similar. so what i really am saying is “oh goodness, it was good.”
bouchon can be defined as a type of restaurant that serves pork, sausage and pates(meat centric). funny thing is originating in lyon, these restaurants are not known for fancy-schmancy meals. according to many sources, they are fun and neighborly with many patrons having personal connections to the owner. if this is the case -after just a few weeks, the richmond bouchon shows potential to be the essence of that particular definition.